Mt. Langley in a Day from L.A.

Cirque Peak from Cottonwood Lakes Basin.
Cirque Peak from Cottonwood Lakes Basin

The sky was brightening in the east, and sunrise was approaching when I met Miklos and Krisztina at the Denny’s in Sylmar. We were already wasting light. The plan was to drive from near sea level up to Horseshoe Meadows, at about 10,000′ on the Sierra east side. The hike/run we had in mind was a keyhole loop from the Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead up (old) Army Pass and then down New Army Pass. If we felt OK at the top of Army Pass, we would also do Mt. Langley (14,026′).

The weather forecast looked good. There was a chance of some gusty southwest winds in the afternoon, but temps were warm and there was virtually no chance of T-storms. With a record low Southern Sierra snowpack, there was almost no chance that an ice axe would be required on Army Pass. I was familiar with the route on Langley and down from New Army Pass, and expected to be back to the car well before sunset. But, just in case, the moon was about half full.

Low snow year on Army Pass. June 23, 2007.
Low snow year on Army Pass. June 23, 2007.

In fact, there had been very little snow on Army Pass, or anywhere else. We reached the pass relatively quickly, and decided to continue to Langley. Now, after another hour of hiking, we were above a prominent rock band that extends across Langley’s south face, and making good progress.

I’ve been convinced for some time that pursed-lip breathing helps me at higher altitudes, particularly when I’m not well acclimated. There’s a skill to it. There seems to me an optimum blend of heart rate, respiratory rate, and the amount of resistance created on exhalation. When all these factors are in balance, the breathing technique is almost automatic and effortless, and it really does seem to help. It certainly seemed to be helping me now.

I topped out a few hundred yards west of the summit, and ambled over to the high point of the peak. On a scale of 1 to 10, I felt pretty good — maybe a 7. Making an effort to stay hydrated, consume plenty of calories, and not push the pace too hard seemed to have worked — at least this time.

The view along the crest to Mt. Whitney and the peaks of the Kings-Kern Divide was telling. It was remarkable just how little snow there was at the highest elevations of the Sierra. A week before I had been paddling the Kern River. Now I could see why the flow on the upper Kern was dropping so fast.

This wide-angle photograph of Mt. Whitney and the Sierra crest from the summit of Mt. Langley is from a high resolution composite of 8 individual images. It was created using the improved photo-merge tools in Photoshop CS3.

Big horn sheep on the slopes of Mt. Langley. June 23, 2007.
Big horn sheep on the slopes of Mt. Langley. June 23, 2007.

Miklos and Krisztina joined me on the summit, and after taking a few summit photos, we headed down. Screeing down the slopes below the rock band, we were startled when a herd of perhaps 20 big horn sheep rumbled across the slopes below us. They flowed across the rough landscape like quicksilver. Graceful and robust, they moved effortlessly between the rocks and up a small slope. In the moments it took me to react, grab my camera, and turn it on, all but two large rams trailing the group, had disappeared.

Energized by the sight of these fleet-footed animals, we continued down to the saddle at Army Pass, and then up and over New Army Pass. Before sunset we would be back to the car, and before dark, eating dinner at Lone Pine. Before midnight we would be back in L.A. Here’s a Google Earth image and Google Earth KMZ file of a GPS trace of our route.

Note: Going to higher altitudes without properly acclimating can result in very serious, life-threatening illnesses. There is much information available on the Internet regarding altitude sickness and acclimatization. As a starting point see UIAA Medical Commission – Advice and Recommendations and Wikipedia: Altitude sickness.

Related post: Cottonwood – New Army Pass Loop

Lower Kern River

The class IV rapid Deadmans Curve on the Lower Kern River.

Runoff from the Upper Kern River is stored in Lake Isabella and then released to the Lower Kern River according to flood control and irrigation requirements. The releases for summertime irrigation normally produce good flows for rafting and kayaking.

Although only a 2.5-3.0 hour drive from Los Angeles, the class IV Miracle to Democrat run on the Lower Kern River is usually remarkably uncrowded. Sure, you’ll probably see a few rafts, but nothing like the log jam of rafts on some other rivers. It’s not unusual to paddle for a couple of hours and not see another group.

On the 11 mile reach between Miracle Hot Springs and the Democrat Day Use Area, there are eight rapids  that are rated class III+ or class IV, many class II and class III rapids, and one class V rapid. The class V rapid, Royal Flush, is normally portaged. There are numerous places for kayakers to surf, spin and play along the way. Depending on how much time is spent playing, paddlers may choose to take out at Delonegha, at about the 7 mile point, or continue on the “Big Five” section to Democrat.

In this post’s photo, the kayaker is paddling the rapid Deadman’s Curve, aka Powerful Possum. This class IV rapid plunges down a big drop with surprising speed into steep waves and pushy diagonals.

Note: It is extremely important to wear a personal flotation device (PFD) when on a river. If you’re not an experienced whitewater kayaker or rafter, contact an outfitter for more information about paddling trips and instruction.

Gumplant

Gumplant (Grindelia hirsutula var. hirsutula) in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve

In a Spring in which there has been little rain and a reduced number of wildflowers, the vibrant yellow of gumplant has been a welcome sight along Ahmanson’s main trail in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve near the Victory trailhead.

This appears to be Grindelia hirsutula var. hirsutula, a species considered rare in Ventura County. It is reported that a species of gumplant was used medicinally by the Chumash, and other native peoples within its range, for treatment of pulmonary problems.

Peaks Along Pleasant View Ridge

Peaks along Pleasant View Ridge in the San Gabriel Mountains.

Sitting on a weather worn log, I emptied the grit from my shoes and asked Miklos how much water he had left. We had just finished the 3 mile segment of Pleasant View Ridge, between Mt. Williamson and Burkhart Saddle and were debating continuing along the ridge to Will Thrall Peak and the next peak to the northwest. Abiding by the “here now, climb it now” philosophy, we took the first few steps up the steep slope.

A little more than a mile and 1200′ of gain later we were enjoying the panoramic view, and pondering why there would be a benchmark stamped “PALLETT” on the summit of a peak named “Pleasant View Ridge,” on Pleasant View Ridge, in plain view of Pallett Mountain.

With the addition of the segment from Burkhart Saddle, this extended version of the Pleasant View Ridge hike/run included the following peaks and high points:

Mt. Williamson (8214′) – As marked on the Crystal Lake topo.

Point 8244 – The Mt. Williamson register is normally here.

Point 8248 – This is the highest point on Pleasant View Ridge.

Peak 8160+ – Peak east-southeast of Pallett Mountain.

Pallett Mountain (7760+’) – Peak just east of Burkhart Saddle.

Will Thrall Peak (7845′) – Peak just west of Burkhart Saddle.

Pleasant View Ridge 7983′ – Peak northwest of Will Thrall marked with a benchmark stamped “PALLETT.”

Pine Drops

Pine drops (Pterospora andromedea) on the Pacific Crest Trail near Little Jimmy Trail Camp

Pine drops (Pterospora andromedea) and snow plant (Sarcodes sanguinea) are related nonphotosynthetic plants that are found under pine and related trees, primarily in the mountains of the western U.S.

At one time it was believed that these plants were saprophytes, and obtained needed nutrients directly from decaying organic matter in soil. However, research has revealed a more complex parasitic relationship in which the plant obtains carbohydrate from a pine tree, by way of a shared mycorrhizal fungus.

The photograph was taken on the run described in Heat Wave, on July 16, 2006.

Related post: Snow Plant

Golden Yarrow

Perfectly sized to work the minute central disk flowers of golden yarrow, a tiny insect -- perhaps a species of bee fly -- hovers a few millimeters from the plant.

Perfectly sized to work the minute central disk flowers of golden yarrow, a tiny insect — perhaps a syrphid fly — hovers a few millimeters from the plant, assessing the risk of continuing to feed.

The compound flower head of the golden yarrow (Eriophyllum confertiflorum) is about the size of a green pea (10mm), and the individual disk flowers at its center are about 1/5 as large (2mm).

From a run at Sage Ranch Park on May 28, 2007.

Related post: Bee Fly on Western Wallflower.