Running Down the South Fork Trail from Islip Saddle

Just six days before I'd been sitting in my car at Islip Saddle debating whether to run. It had been COLD. The temperature had been about 35°F and the wind a steady 20 mph with higher gusts. It was cloudy and at times foggy, and it looked like rain, sleet or snow might begin at any moment.

Today I was back at Islip Saddle and the temperature was definitely not in the 30s. On a scale of 1 to 10, today's trail running weather was going to be a 9 or 10. At least here in the San Gabriel Mountains the weather was going to be a 9 or 10. Down in the valleys the temps would hit the mid-90s in some locations.

We were doing the Islip Saddle - South Fork Camp - Vincent Gap - Mt. Baden-Powell loop, one of my favorite adventure runs in the San Gabriels. Because this loop starts by running down to the high desert heat is often a factor, and an early start desirable.

Running down the South Fork Trail it felt like it was going to be a great day for the run, and by the time we were chugging up the Manzanita Trail toward Vincent Gap, there was no doubt about it. There was a cool, down-canyon breeze, and even in the sun the temperature was pleasant. The hatch of gnats that usually follows Spring showers wasn't happening and all in all the conditions were as good as I've had on the loop.

Here is a slideshow with a few photos from the run, and here are an interactive Google Earth browser view and an elevation profile of the run.

Some related posts: Heat Wave, San Gabriel Mountains Running Adventure, Bear Cubs on the South Fork Trail, Islip Saddle - Mt. Baden-Powell South Fork Loop

This is an adventurous loop that starts and ends at the Cold Spring trailhead, low on the slopes of the Santa Ynez Mountains in the Santa Barbara Front Country. The route climbs the Cold Spring Trail to Camino Cielo on the crest of the range, and then descends to Forbush Flat and Blue Canyon in the Santa Barbara Back Country.

The Front Country views on the Cold Spring Trail are spectacular, and the Back Country segment from Forbush to Blue Canyon has a classic, isolated character, accentuated by grassy flats, sprawling oaks, gurgling springs and unique geology. Montecito Peak (3214') can be climbed on the way up the Cold Spring Trail and depending on how much time you spend on the summit, adds about 15 minutes.

I was running with Kevin Young, whom I'd met during the Backbone Ultra. Kevin is long-time resident of Santa Barbara and this is just one of the challenging routes in his backyard. As is the case with many trail runs, the mileage of this loop -- about 22 miles -- isn't the best indicator of its difficulty. Many variations of the loop are possible, but one thing they all have in common is lots of elevation gain.

Thanks to the marine layer it was cool along the immediate coast, but inland temps were hot. When we started the run the temperature at the Montecito RAWS was 60°F. A few hours later when we were climbing out of Blue Canyon on the memorably steep Romero Trail the in-the-sun temperature at nearby Los Prietos was around 100°F.

Having done this loop a number of times, Kevin knew it was longer than it looked, and had stashed some goodies at the Romero trailhead. You might think 100 oz. of water would be plenty for 16 miles. On a different day it might be, but today we both ran out of water part way down the Romero Trail. Neither one of us had particularly fresh legs. Kevin was training for a 100 miler later in May and had run 20 miles the day before.

The PB & J sandwich at Romero hit the spot, but after drinking a 16 oz. recovery drink, half of a large bottle of water, and some Gatorade, I wondered if I had overdone the fluids. Nope -- it actually helped a lot and my running attitude improved considerably.

Kevin's route back to the Cold Spring trailhead from Romero initially followed the Nine Trails course on the Edison Catway, but after reaching the Buena Vista Trail continued down to Park Lane. Here we picked up the Old Pueblo Trail, and then worked across to the McMenemy Trail. We followed the McMenemy Trail to the Hot Springs Trail, which we took down to Mountain Drive. From the Hot Springs trailhead it was about a mile on Mountain Drive back to the Cold Spring trailhead. Even though it had a lot of up and down, this part of the run turned out to be surprisingly cool and enjoyable.

For maps of the area see the Multi-use Trails Coalition and Santa Barbara Hikes web sites.

Here's a slideshow with a few photos from the run. We did this run last Sunday, April 28.

Hyside's Richard Dechant's Aqua RV Hooligan Boat

Last summer it looked like El Nino was ramping up for a moderate-level event and the buzz was that Warm Episode ENSO Conditions were pretty much a done deal for the Winter. Only no one told the atmosphere -- and it didn't cooperate with warming SSTs to produce the expected event.

This and other factors resulted in one of the most meager Kern snowpacks on record with the April 1 snow courses averaging about 23% of normal. The lowest was in 1977 when the April snow courses averaged 19% of normal. Not only was this year dry, but last year was also a low snowpack year. 2011-2012 and 2012-2013 ranked a close second to 1975-1976 and 1976-1977 as having the lowest snowpacks on record in consecutive seasons.

The shallow snowpack and a cold weather system the week preceding Festival kept flows in the 450-500 cfs range Saturday and Sunday. There was enough water for Hooligan Boats, SUP Races, Whitewater Triathlon and Slalom Race, but the Brush Creek races had to be cancelled.

The weather for the 49th edition of the Kern River Festival was perfect, and even with the low flow there was plenty of whitewater action. Everyone looked like they enjoyed paddling the Kern. I know I did. More info, results and photos can be found on the KVRC.org and KernFestival.com web sites.

View Southwest from Sadie Hawkins past Twin Peaks to Mt. Wilson

The snow was rock hard and covered with lodgepole pine needles and other debris. Having experience climbing snow and ice I can usually deal with a little early season snow, but I could see no way to safely cross this patch. The snow was steep and icy, the runout long and the risk high. My usual tricks for crossing short stretches of snow were not going to work.

A 5000' deep marine layer produced some spectacular views along Angeles Crest Highway on the way to Islip Saddle this morning. The peak on the right just above the clouds is 5409-foot Monrovia Peak. Peaks of the Baldy group can be seen in the distance on the left.

The plants on the left with the red blossoms are scarlet bugler.

Bear Canyon

Doing a moderate run in the San Gabriels and climbing a few peaks was a great way to unwind from the excitement of doing the 68 mile Backbone Ultra last weekend.

I felt good. I'd run more or less normally in the week following the event -- depleted, but without any physical issues. In part that can be attributed to how Coyote Cohorts runs their events. It was basically a long training run in the company of a great bunch of runners and the help of incredible volunteers. Amazing! The long hours of training also really helped, particularly the back-to-back runs following 50Ks and the back-to-back night/day training runs. My shoes -- Hoka Mafate 2s -- also helped, reducing the impact of all the miles.

One of the reasons for doing today's run was to check how Poodle-dog Bush and some other plants are faring in this low rainfall water year. Since July 1 Downtown Los Angeles has recorded only 5.14 inches of rain. Unless we can manage to wring about a half-inch of rain from the heavens before June 30, this water year will go down as the fourth driest since record-keeping began in 1877. The driest water year on record was in 2005-2006 (3.21 inches). Assuming we don't get that 0.48 inch of rain, three of the four driest water years have occurred since 2000.

Something I noticed on the Backbone run and recent training runs in the Santa Monica Mountains is that plant growth and flowering has been surprisingly robust given the amount of rainfall. This was also the case today on today's run -- the manzanita on the San Gabriel Peak Trail was covered in blossoms and bees, and the nightshade and paintbrush along the trail also seemed to be doing well.

What about the Poodle-dog bush, aka Turricula? It looked about the same as last year at this time -- just starting to come out of Winter dormancy. Last year we had above average rainfall in April and it really seemed to spur the growth of Poodle-dog bush. This year maybe we'll see what an extended period of dry weather does to it. Last year some of the Poodle-dog died before the rain in April.

Here's a short slideshow of a few photos from today's run in the San Gabriel Mountains, as well as some photos of plants and flowers on recent runs in the Santa Monica Mountains.

This rain season has been another dry one in Southern California with many areas recording about one-third to one-half of the normal amount of rainfall.

I have not seen upper Las Virgenes Creek actually flowing any time this rain season. All the creek crossings in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon north of the Cheeseboro connector have been dry to damp all Winter.

Water is pooled in places along the creek, and one of the larger pools is at the creek crossing south of the Cheeseboro connector. I had to laugh when I ran down the hill and saw this pair of Mallards enjoying the pool.

What time was it? 1:00 AM? And I was going to get up at what time? 6:00 AM? And do what? Run to Mugu Peak?

It made sense a few days ago. Do a long night training run, sleep for a few hours, then get up and do another long run.

I couldn't believe it when I woke at 6:15. OK... OK... I'll give it a shot. Bleary-eyed, I drove to Wendy Drive.

The forecast was for another day of record-breaking highs. By Southern California standards most of the Winter had been cool and sometimes even cold. I was sure that a temperature of 80-something was going to feel more like 90-something.

Most of the first few miles of Sycamore Canyon were downhill, shaded and cool. As I passed the Danielson Multi-Use Area it was weird to think that last night we had turned around just a couple of miles up the Backbone Trail from here. Danielson will be around mile 59 of the ultra. Running in the dark and after many miles of technical single track trail, Sycamore Canyon road will hopefully provide at least a bit of mental relief. One foot in front of the other...

This morning I continued to follow the Backbone Trail down Sycamore Canyon and then up the Wood Canyon Vista Trail to the Overlook fire road. Here the Backbone Trail continues left (south) to the Ray Miller Trail. Today I turned right and at the 4-way intersection a little down the road turned left and headed into La Jolla Valley -- one of the "must visit" places in the Santa Monica Mountains. Mugu Peak is on the south side of La Jolla Valley, and stands above the coast at Pt. Mugu.

The title photo was taken from the trail on the east side of Mugu Peak. The eastern part of La Jolla Valley is on the left (above the cactus) and La Jolla Canyon is on the right. Boney Mountain is in the distance. The Chamberlain segment of the Backbone Trail descends from near the high point on the right side of the skyline.

There are several ways to return to Wendy Drive from Mugu Peak and my favorite route is nearly all single track trail. Not today. Today wherever there was a choice I took the one that would have the most shade and water faucets. That meant descending Hell Hill instead of Wood Canyon Vista Trail, and running back up Sycamore Road instead of using the single track trails on the west side of the canyon.

It took a while, but eventually I made it back to the car.

Some related posts: Back to Mugu Peak; Laguna Peak, La Jolla Valley, and the Channel Islands

On my list of things to do to prepare for the Backbone Ultra was a night training run on a segment of the Backbone Trail we would be running in the dark.

Tonight was a good night for that training run for a couple of reasons. One was that the weather was going to be phenomenal. Today several record high temps for the date had been broken, including nearby Camarillo at 89 and Oxnard at 84. It would be warmer on tonight's run than on many of the runs I'd done this Winter. Another was that adjusting for Daylight Savings Time, the moon would rise at about the same time and be in about the same phase as on the day of the event.

The plan was to do two out and back runs from the Mishe Mokwa trailhead. The Backbone Ultra starts at Will Rogers State Park in Pacific Palisades and ends at Ray Miller Campground, near Pt. Mugu. The Mishe Mokwa trailhead is at about mile 52 of the course. The first run tonight would be on the easier terrain of the Backbone Trail east of Mishe Mokwa; and the second would be a more difficult run past Sandstone Peak and down the Chamberlain Trail.

Temps were on the chilly side as we gathered at the Kanan Road trailhead for Backbone Ultra Training Run #2. I think someone said 28 degrees. It must have been that cold. Not only were the trailhead sign coated with ice and garbage can lids frozen shut, among the 20+ runners there wasn't a bare arm in sight.

After taking a group photo run organizers Howard Cohen and Mike Epler sent us on our way with promises of hot soup and other delights at Encinal Cyn Road and Mishe Mokwa. (Delivered as promised!)

At first there was so much frost it was hard to distinguish between the frost and the pandemic bloom of bigpod Ceanothus covering the hills. Even so it didn't take long to get warmed up and enjoy some excellent running on one of the more scenic sections of the Backbone Trail.

The title photo is a view northwest along Etz Meloy Mtwy at about mile 47 of the Backbone Trail. The highest peak on the skyline, right of center, is Sandstone Peak. Sandstone Peak marks the high point of the Backbone Trail and the start of an approximately 7 mile long, 2700' descent into Sycamore Canyon.

Here's a view southeast from the same vantage point along Etz Meloy. The runners are about 9 miles from the Kanan Road trailhead and have just done a moderately graded climb from Trancas Canyon, gaining about 1200' over about 4.5 miles.

For more photos and info see the Coyote Backbone Trail Ultra web site and Facebook page.

Ladyface is the peak left of center. It's west of Kanan Rd. just south of the 101 Freeway. Sandstone Peak, the highest summit in the Santa Monica Mountains, is in the distance on the right.

From this evening's run on Lasky Mesa.

Some related posts: Ladyface Loop, Ladyface the Long Way, Sandstone Peak from Wendy Drive

According to the 1981-2010 climate normals January, February and March are the rainiest three months at Downtown Los Angeles (USC). March is normally a little wetter than December, but close enough that the four months December to March "normally" account for nearly 80% of Los Angeles' annual rainfall total of 14.93 inches.

But normal weather years only exist on paper, and those rarely seen monthly normals are just a reference so we may make comparisons from year to year. This water year Downtown Los Angeles was only about 0.2 inch under the normal amount of rainfall for December, but as of today is about 1.5 inches under the normal January total. When you add it all up Los Angeles is at about 63% of the normal total for the water year.

Although much of Southern California has recorded well below average rainfall, that isn't necessarily the case across the board. LAX's water year rainfall total currently stands at 89% of normal, and Santa Barbara Airport is at 94% of normal.

There are some indications (GWO phase and forecast MJO activity) that February might just have its share of wet weather. We'll see!

Update February 13, 2013. Despite hopeful signs at the end of January and CPC's above average Precipitation Outlook for Southern California for the period February 5-9 and February 7-13, Downtown Los Angeles (USC) has recorded only 0.02 inch of rain so far this February. Los Angeles water year rainfall now stands at 4.42 inches, which is slightly less than half of normal. Once again it looks like there may be some opportunities for wet weather in California during the last week or so of February, but the increasingly La Nina-like character of the atmospheric circulation suggests more rain is probable in Northern and Central California than in the southern part of the state. Again, we'll see!

The photo of clouds and showers in the Los Angeles basin is from this morning's run in the Santa Monica Mountains.